Labels:text | paper | font | black and white | document OCR: 2124 Bohemian: The traditional Saaz yeast from Czechoslovakia. Ferments clean and malty, rich residual maltiness in high gravity pilsners. Very slow working, Making a starter is TYW recomended. Benefits from a long lagering period. Medium flocculation. Attenuation 69 - 738. 2112 California "Steam style": Ferments clean and crisp without unwanted phenolics at temperatures up to 65 F. Highly flocculant, but clears well. Apparent attenuation 72 - 76%. Specialty Yeasts 3056 Bavarian Wheat: A blend of two yeasts, Saccaromyses cerevisiae and Saccaromyces delbrueckil for traditional South German style wheat beers. Preduces the "clove-like" phenolics and cloying sweetness characteristic of these beers. If you don't want cloves, don't use this yeast. Flocculation, high, Attentuation 73 - 778. Also nice for fruit beers. 3134 sake (saccharomyces sake): For use in conjunction with Koji (Aspergillus oryzae) for making a variety of sake styles. Full-bodied, true sake character, to 18 percent alcohol. 3021 Prise de mousse: Institute Pasteur champagne yeast, race bayanus. Crisp and dry, ideal for sparkling and still red, white and fruit wines. Also good for Barley wines. Flocculation refers to the yeast's clumping qualities. Plainly put, a highly flocculant yeast is easily disturbed from the bottom of the bottle (due to its small, grainy flocculate particles), while a yeast with low flocculation (big, sticky particles) sticks to the bottom. Apparent attenuation is determined by the composition of the wort (percentage of fermentables to unfermentables), and by the yeast strain employed. Bach strain ferments different sugars to varying degrees, resulting in higher or lower final gravities. This will affect the residual sweetness and body. The higher the apparent attenuation, the drier and crisper the beer it will produce. Starter Cultures If you plan on starting your lager at 60 F. or below, or are making more than 5 gallons of beer, or would like to take my advice, then you need to make a starter culture. Liquid yeasts are very pure, but they often take 2 to 3 times as long to begin active fermentation. This fag period, as its called, is the most dangerous time for a naive young beer, and, having all been naive and young once, we know the pitfalls. There are always going to be bacteria and wild yeast present in your wort. The idea is to get the fermentation going quickly enough to nip them in the bud. A starter culture is the only way to do this. To make a culture: Top the inner packet of the Wyeast bag by placing it on a flat surface and striking it with the palm of your hand. If the outer bag breaks, don't panic, skip immediately to to the next paragraph, if not, continue on. Shake and mix the contents of the bag, and put it in a warm place (not in the sun) at 70 to 80 F. Let the yeast incubate for 24 hours. If it swells up prior to this, make the starter immediately. After your bag is swollen, or has set for 24 hours, or if you broke the bag initially, you need to make a small amount of weak wort solution. Boil one or two tablespoons of malt extract in 2 to 3 cups of water for 5 min ., ccol it under sterile conditions (a sink of cold water works well). Once cool, pour it into a sterile bottle and add the packet of yeast. Attach an airlock and swirl the bottle to give the yeast some oxygen. Dry yeasts are infused with oxygen when they are dried, liquid yeaste need it in the first stages of fermentation. Let your culture incubate until you see activity. If it doesn't seem active after 24 hours swirl it around and watch the air lock. Chances are, it will bubble. This means the culture is ready. You can put off brewing as long as another 3 or 4 days, but the sooner the better. Remember to swirl the starter, bottle to get all the yeast off the bottom before you add it to your wort. Also aerate your wort for several minutes after you add the yeast. Questions? Call for advice at (415)459-2520 from 10:30 to 6:00 California time.
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